Few creatures are hated by homeowners and agriculturists as much as moles and gophers. Their underground excavations create mounds of excess dirt that has to go somewhere, so they push it out of the burrow and make unsightly mounds in the middle of the lawn or landscaping. 

Moles and gophers are often lumped together, but in reality, they are very different animals. Other than they both dig in the yard or garden where we don't want them to, they really have very little in common. 
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There are 13 species of gophers in the US, but the one most commonly found in Oklahoma is the Plains Pocket Gopher (Geomys bursarius). There is, however, a localized population of Mexican Pocket Gophers (Cratogeomys castanops) found in the Oklahoma panhandle region.

Gophers are strictly vegetarians. The eat the roots and young shoots of plants chewing them off at the surface from below. They can cause a lot of damage in a garden and are hated by gardeners. 
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Gophers dig deep tunnels. The only evidence that they are present is the unsightly, crescent shaped mounds of dirt that push up out of their tunnels. Below the surface is a complex network of connected chambers, storerooms, and a drainage system that would be the envy of any engineer. ​

Gophers also have another unique adaption in that their skin closes BEHIND their teeth. This allows them to chew through the dirt without getting dirt in their mouth! 

Moles are strictly carnivores. They dig long tunnels just below the surface in search of earthworms, grubs, etc. The do not damage the grass or plants by eating their roots as gophers do, but rather dislodge them while digging tunnels in search of food. 

On an average day, a mole will eat 60-90% of its own bodyweight in earthworms, grubs and insects. 

Moles create a nest under a sidewalk, tree, driveway, or other hard surface. They make deep tunnels that they use to move from place to place, especially from the nest to the feeding grounds. These tunnels are 6-12" deep and usually run along a hard surface such as a retaining wall or sidewalk. These deep tunnels are used daily and may be used for years. However, once they get to their feeding grounds, they move up to just below the surface and create shallow tunnels. Rather than digging the dirt out of a feeding tunnel, they simply push the dirt upwards to create the classic "mole tunnel". 

Shallow mole runs may be used once and never used again, or if the hunting is good, may be reused several times as long as they are finding food. 
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​Predator Impact has a policy of live trapping and relocating animals whenever possible, but moles and gophers are one of the few exceptions to this rule. There simply isn't an effective live trap for either animal. 

The most successful approach to controlling moles and gophers is a comprehensive one. A combination of gas fumigation and mechanical traps. 

The traps we use varies a lot by location, the basically the principal is the same. We excavate a small area of the tunnel and place a trap in the tunnel. When the mole of gopher uses the tunnel, it is caught. 

Traps work well, but are not 100% successful. Predator Impact follows trapping up with an EPA approved treatment that fills the network of tunnels with a gas that is toxic when concentrated, but which dissipates harmlessly into the soil or atmosphere. The combination of the two methods results in an more effective treatment than either one alone. 

I wish I could say that after one treatment, you would never have moles or gophers ever again, but there currently are no effective barriers or repellants. Sooner or later, new moles or gophers will move in. I like the analogy of having your apartment exterminated for cockroaches, but the apartment next door is still infested. We can eliminate all the moles and gophers on your property, but as long as the neighbors have moles or gophers, they are likely to recolonize your yard as well. Often a group of neighbors will band together and all have their properties treated at the same time. This approach slows the spread, especially for those neighbor in the middle of the "clean zone". 
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Another alternative is a lower cost monthly contract where, for a set fee per month, we inspect and treat your yard or property as needed. 

Predator Impact, LLC can solve your mole or gopher problem. 
Call today to discuss your situation and alternatives for eradicating them. 
There is never a fee for consultations, and we are licensed and insured for your protection. 
Mark Runnels
Predator Impact, LLC
​(918) 397-4091

A few Canada geese can make a nice addition to any park, golf course, etc., but with few natural predators, their population soon gets out of hand!

Each goose generates 4 lbs of nasty, unsightly goose poop, and a small flock of 15 can fill a bushel basket every day! Not only is it unattractive, there are a number of serious diseases that can be transmitted through their droppings!

Just a quick note that all Canada geese, their nests, eggs, and young are Federally protected. Harming them is a felony that can carry stiff fines and/or jail sentences. Predator Impact, LLC has the proper State and Federal permits to manage nuisance geese for you. 
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Management of Canada geese falls into two categories. 
#1 Resident Geese
Most of the urban geese in Oklahoma are non-migratory geese that live here year round. They do not migrate north in the summer, but live and nest in Oklahoma all summer. 

#2 Migratory Geese
Most of the rural geese and some of the urban geese are migratory. They live here in the winter, but migrate north in the spring to nest and raise their young. 

The Federal Government has set a date range between March 11 and 1-Septenber as the period of time when all of the migratory geese are gone from Oklahoma and only resident geese are left. The management practices inside and outside of this date range are very different. 

Managing Migratory Geese. 
During the period from 1-September to 11-March of the following year, it is presumed that we are dealing with Federally protected migrator geese. Management at this time is strictly "hands off". We can harass the geese, and use deterrents, but we cannot physically re-locate them without special permission. 
Predator Impact, LLC has a number of non-contact controls that will encourage the geese to take up residence somewhere else. These include: 

• Special frequency hand held lasers to disturb their sleep at night. 
• RC boats and RC cars to harass them both on land and on water. 
• Robotic alligator that harasses them. 
• Trained dogs that will chase them, but not harm them. 

In addition, we have a harmless chemical that we can put on the grass to keep them from feeding. If you were to taste it, it would taste like candy. It is harmless to people, pets and wildlife... except.... if a goose eats grass treated with it, it gives them short term, but very uncomfortable intestinal cramps. The geese can tell the grass has been treated and they will go somewhere else to feed! 

These measures combine to create an environment that the geese do not find comfortable, and they will go somewhere else to live! 

Managing Resident Geese
After 11-March and before 1-September, it is presumed that the geese that are still here are non-migratory resident geese. The Federal government grants the state special permits that allow a lot more aggressive activities that are not allowed the rest of the year. 

Egg Addling
Egg addling is birth control for geese. 
After the Goose Roundup described later, egg addling is the second best method of limiting the number of geese on your property. 
The permits issued to Predator Impact by the state and federal government allow us to destroy a prescribed number of eggs and nests. However, this isn't our preferred method of reducing the number of goslings that are hatched. If we destroy a nest, the geese will just re-nest close by. If we do it too many times, they will hide the nest and they can be very difficult to find. 
A much better approach is egg addling. 
This is a PETA approved method whereby we treat the eggs with a special  food grade oil to deactivate them and return them to the nest. The pair will continue to incubate the deactivated eggs for the rest of the summer. When their hormones signal the end of the nesting season, they will walk away having not hatched or raised any goslings for that year. 

Aggressive Individual Removal
Every year, dozens of people in Oklahoma are knocked down, injured, and even hospitalized due to aggressive male geese that believe they are protecting their nests. Canes and walkers seem to trigger the worst attacks making nesting geese particularly dangerous for the elderly When there is a danger from an aggressive gander, Predator Impact can capture that individual and relocate him to our wildlife preserve in rural Nowata County. The individual's wings are clipped, or otherwise treated to keep him from returning. He will quickly assimilate into the flock that lives there and will find a new mate. Once the aggressive male is removed, the female becomes very calm and continues to incubate her eggs. This is often combined with egg addling to eliminate the aggressive individual and to reduce the population growth. 

Operant Conditioning 
In an urban setting such as a hospital, park, or industrial area, geese quickly lose their fear of people. When people run from them, or show signs of being frightened by them, the geese are further emboldened. The geese will often attack even if there isn't a nest in he immediate area. Predator Impact has a number of tools to re-instill a healthy fear of people that will reduce, if not eliminate, any aggressive behavior in the geese. 
By judicious use of trained dogs, trained birds of prey, RC vehicles, lasers, and paintball guns, the geese learn to once again fear the approach people rather than attacking them. 

Goose Roundup

By far the most powerful tool in Predator Impact's arsenal for Canada goose management is the Goose Roundup. 
All birds drop all of their feathers every year and grow new ones. Most birds such as songbirds, raptors, etc. drop one flight feather on each wing so that the stay balanced and can still fly. Once that pair of feathers are mostly regrown, they will lose the next matched pair, etc. until they have all been replaced. 

Geese take a different approach. Beginning in mid-June, they drop all of their flight feathers at once. For a 4-5 week period, they can walk, they can run, they can swim, but they cannot fly. During this time, we bring in kayakers, portable corrals, and specially designed trailers and round them up like cattle. 
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They are taken to a distant lake that is at least 100 miles (usually much more) that is specified by the State Wildlife Dept. There they are individually inspected to record any bands, make sure they are healthy and any with fully developed flight feathers are trimmed or removed to keep them grounded until after the next molt. They will stay at the new location while re-growing their flight feathers and by the time they can fly again, they are fully acclimated to their new home and they will not return to your property. 

While the geese we relocate will not come back, the same features that made your property attractive to geese in the first place, may encourage more. Think of the round up as a "reset button" on your population to keep working their numbers down. 

Through a consistent annual program of egg addling and goose roundups, most of our customers see a steady reduction year over year of the goose population on their property. 

If you have a problem with the Canada geese on your property, contact Predator Impact for a free, no obligation review. We will discuss your situation and make some recommendations. 
Predator Impact, LLC
Mark Runnels
​(918) 397-4091 

I am old enough (62) to remember when a #1 Prime Oklahoma beaver pelt brought $60-75 each. Today. a fur trapper would be lucky to sell them for $8 each. Why is this important to a modern suburban homeowner? Because a crash in the price of beaver pelts means that virtually no one traps them for their fur anymore which has led to an explosion in the beaver population. 

A typical beaver colony consists of one pair of adults; 2-4 of this year's babies, and 2-4 of last year's babies. As the female prepares to give birth to new young, she will run off the two year olds, and they will move into a nearby body of water than doesn't currently have beavers. Every colony evicts 2-4 beavers a year and the number of beaver colonies doubles or more each year. 

With an exploding population, and less and less wild area for them to expand into, the natural choice for the beavers to set up housekeeping is suburban waterways, decorative ponds, and golf course water traps. 
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No animal, other than man, modifies its environment as much as beavers. They cut down trees to eat the layer under the bark, and to provide sticks and logs to build dams. They will cut trees all fall and jam the sticks in the mud underwater to keep them fresh for winter feed.
They dam up creeks and drainage ditches, flooding homes and crop land. They can do thousands of dollars in damage to ornamental trees and landscaping in just a few days. 
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In the northern states, beavers build the classic beaver lodge out in the water. 
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but I have only encountered this type of lodge twice in Oklahoma. Far more common is the highly destructive bank den. With a bank den, the beavers burrow into a high bank, or most usually, the dam of a pond. Here they can build an elaborate series of chambers and tunnels. Too often the tunnels collapse, or blow out the back of the pond dam dropping the water level and necessitating thousands of dollars in repairs to the dam. Cattle, horses, and people have been known to break through the surface over the top of a tunnel only to fall in and break their leg.

Here are a couple of pictures showing the den entrance after the dam had been breached by the beavers and the water drained.  

With no natural predators, it is essential that humans control the beaver population. 
In rural areas, lethal traps are the rule, but in urban and suburban areas where children and pets are ubiquitous, lethal traps are out of the question. Any trap that will instantly kill, or drown. a 70 lb beaver cannot be used anywhere that children or pets might encounter them. 

Predator Impact has developed a protocol for trapping beavers in urban and suburban areas using several different types of live traps. These traps are designed to simply contain the beaver unharmed and should a child or a pet get into the trap, there would be minimal or no damage. 

The first type of live trap that we will discuss is the Koro, or Hancock style trap. This trap is ideal anywhere there is a sloping bank into the water.
​The Koro Trap is placed half in and half out of the water. 
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​The trap is baited with freshly cut sticks, the beaver's favorite treat. When the beaver climbs up on the trap to get the sticks, the trap is triggered and he is caught. 
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The second trap option in Predator Impact's tool kit is the Comstock Cage trap. The Comstock is ideal for den entrances, runways, or anywhere else that beaver will be passing through. They can also be drawn into the trap using food or scent lure. 

The Comstock Beaver trap is a very well made trap with powerful springs on the door and positive locking mechanisms that assure that the beaver will not escape. 

The third live trap option is the Bailey Beaver trap. The Bailey is a true suitcase type trap and is ideal for shallow water with flat bottoms. Both sides and the trigger mechanism are all under water. When the beaver triggers the trap, both sides swing up enclosing the beaver harmlessly between them. 

Regardless of the situation, Predator Impact has the right tools to solve your beaver problem safely and effectively. 

Contact Predator Impact to discuss your beaver issue. Consultations are always free and there is no obligation. 

Predator Impact. LLC
​(918) 397-4091

Bees are undeniably the most beneficial insect in North America, if not the world. Predator Impact is committed to preserving them whenever possible.  

Every spring, the old queen lays eggs that will hatch into several new queens. Just before they hatch, the old queen will take approximately half the hive and will leave the colony. the first strong queen to hatch will kill her sisters and take over as the new queen of the hive. 
Meanwhile, the old queen and her posse (now called a swarm) will pick a convenient limb, eave of a house, or other location to ball up and wait while scouts look for a new permanent home. 
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At this time, the bees in the swarm do not have a home to defend and are calm and gentle. There is very little risk of being stung by bees in a swarm. 

The scouts travel 1-2 miles in search of a hollow tree, cavity in some rocks, or another suitable home. Unfortunately, their choice of a new home is all too often a crack or crevice in someone's home. That is the subject of today's post. 

A homeowner called Predator Impact for help with a honeybee colony in a wall in a garage. The customer's father had passed away recently and left the house to his daughter. The father had known that the bee colony was in the wall, but wasn't concerned about it. It had been there for many years, but needed to be removed so that the house could be sold. 

Honeybees have to generate heat to keep themselves warm, and especially if there are babies. They do this by rapidly beating their wings and the muscle exertion creates heat. We can use an infrared camera to detect the exact position and size of the colony based on the temperature difference. 

Based on the IR image, it was clear that it was a good size hive located between the second and third stud. The outside of the house was rock, and there is usually a large hollow area between the rock wall and the inner wall that makes a perfect area for the bees to set up housekeeping. 
We cut open the wall and the black fiber board between it and the rock.
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The honey bee colony completely filled the space and extended into the adjoining space on either side. The dark color of the honeycomb is typical of very old colonies. 
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We vacuumed up all the bees with a special, low suction bee vacuum, removed the honeycomb and washed out the cavity to remove any honey residue. 
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​Reinstalled the fiberboard and cut new plywood to replace the old printed wallboard. (The printed gypsum wallboard isn't made any more, so plywood painted to match was close enough.) 

The customer was happy with the final result. 
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If I had drawn some vertical lines on it with magic marker, it would have been even closer! :-)

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Once a honeybee colony has decided that you are roommates, there are two options for removing them. One is fast, but expensive; the other takes longer but requires minimal if any reconstruction cost.

#1 Cutout
The process described above is a cutout. It is fast (usually 1-2 days) but the reconstruction cost can drive the cost up. In a cutout, the wall is physically opened, the hive manually removed, the cavity cleaned, and the wall is reconstructed. In the case above, we were fortunate that the colony was at ground level, and we could access it without removing the rock. If the colony is more than one story off the ground and/or requires substantial de-construction such as a rock wall or chimney, the cost can easily reach into the thousands of dollars! 

#2 Trapout
Trapout is a process with an undeserved bad reputation. Too often it is tried by people who don't know what they are doing, or don't have the patience to do it right. Predator Impact has perfected the trapout. 

• It begins by placing a one way door over the entrance of the hive. 
• As the bees leave, they cannot return to the hive. 
• A new hive is placed outside with baby bees in it. When the bees can't get back to their own hive, they instinctively move into the new hive and start taking care of the baby bees. 
• After a week or so, the queen realizes that there is no water coming into the hive and she gathers the remainder of the bees and leaves, usually right into the new hive. She can store food (honey) but needs water constantly. 
• We will wait another 2-3 weeks. As the young hatch, they make a flight out of the old colony and wind up right in the new colony. 
• Once all the bees are relocated into the new hive, we move the hive to the bee yard and bring in a completely different hive of bees. We remove the one way door and it takes them just a day or so to find the unguarded honey. They will lick up every drop and move it to their hive. 
• When it is all said and done, the entrance is sealed, and the wall is clean except for the wax honeycomb. 

Done properly, a trap out is often the best option for removing a colony from as wall. 

If you have a situation involving an unwanted colony of bees, call Predator Impact, LLC for a no cost, no obligation consultation. We'll review your unique situation and make recommendations for resolution.

Mark Runnels
Predator Impact, LLC
​(918) 397-4091 

Woodchucks, also called Groundhogs, Marmots, Whistle Pigs, Land Beavers and dozens of other names are a large member of the rodent family that often lives in close proximity with people. 

Woodchucks are strictly vegetarian living on grass, clover, and the local farmer's garden! A couple of groundhogs can do a lot of damage to a garden, flowerbed, or ornamental landscaping. 

The are often confused with beavers, but are actually the largest member of the squirrel family. Their fur is popular with trout fishermen and is used to tie flies that imitate stoneflies and other insect larvae. 

Like their squirrel cousins, a woodchuck's teeth never stop growing. Their teeth are an average of 4" long and grow about 1/4" per month. Their top and bottom teeth are aligned to wear against each other to keep them trim and sharp. 

THE BURROWING BEAST
If it wasn't for their habit of burrowing under sheds and foundations, woodchucks would be nice to have around. Unfortunately, they like to dig under solid objects like boulders, home foundations, and sheds. 
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A woodchuck can excavate as much as 6,000 lbs of dirt when digging their complex system of burrows. To put this in perspective, that would fill six full size pickup beds! This not only makes a mess, but can undermine (no pun intended) the foundation of your home or building, leaving a large hollow void under the foundation. This can cause the foundation to shift and crack leading to expensive repairs. 

Predator Impact can easily and inexpensively live trap and relocate your problem woodchucks. They are relocated to our wildlife preserve in rural Nowata County where they can dig to their heart's content and not have to worry about damaging anyone's home. 

Call us at (918) 397-4091 for a free, no obligation consultation to discuss the solution to your whistle-pig problem! 

For the second time in about a week, we have trapped an armadillo that has a gunshot wound. 

It is armadillo breeding season and they are on the move. We recently trapped and relocated 12 armadillos from an affluent neighborhood near Tulsa. Of those 12, two had non fatal gunshot wounds. 

Armadillos are much hated by gardeners and landscapers. They dig for grubs, especially Japanese beetle grubs and in doing so will often destroy a manicured lawn or landscaping. Their burrows can do significant damage to a home's foundation. 

​Unfortunately, too many people try to "handle" the armadillos themselves and wind up just injuring the animal. The "kill zone" on an armadillo is very small and the hard bony shell makes it difficult to get a precise shot placement. 
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If you have a problem with armadillos, don't take it upon yourself to deal with them. Predator Impact can quickly and easily live trap them and relocated them unharmed to our huge wildlife preserve in rural Nowata County. 

Contact:
Predator Impact, LLC
Mark Runnels
(918) 397-4091

Licensed and insure for your protection! 

As a Mechanical Engineer myself, I have a special appreciation for beavers. No animal, other than man, modifies their environment as much as beavers do. 

Humans have long had a love/hate relationship with beavers. In the wild, the provide valuable services by keeping small trees trimmed, creating ponds that sustain wildlife through droughts, and provided valuable fur and tasty meat for early settlers. In close proximity to human populations, they can create serious problems. They dam up drainage waterways flooding farmland and neighborhoods. Their habit of cutting down large mature trees make them vey unpopular with homeowners, pecan farmers, etc. 

Beavers need deep water to float sticks and branches to their food stockpiles, and to keep the entrance to their dens underwater. The create very ingenious dams from mud, sticks, cattails, etc. to dam up the water. They continue to build it higher and wider until the the water lever meets their needs. 

One dam in the Birch Mountains in Canada is half a mile long and creates a pond large enough to be seen from space! 

It is not known how long it has been there and is so remote, that it wasn't discovered until 2009 when scientists were studying satellite images. 

Closer to home, beavers dam up culverts intended to carry flood waters away from human habitation, and to manage runoff. 

Unfortunately, this can lead to creeks and drainage ditches backing up into neighborhoods and farmland.

Proper management of beavers and beaver dams is necessary to prevent flooding. 
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Beavers are 100% vegetarian. They eat a lot of pond weeds and aquatic vegetation, but they are most recognized for eating twigs and trees. It is commonly believed that beavers feed on wood. That is technically incorrect. Beavers feed on the layer between the wood of the tree and the outer bark, termed the Cambium layer.
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This is the live and growing part of the tree. It contains high levels of sugar and other nutrients necessary for the tree's growth. 

Some beavers, especially young ones, chew the cambium layer off of standing trees rather than cutting them down. 

If they remove a complete ring of bark from around the tree, it will die standing. 

Other beavers, especially older ones, cut the entire tree down to get to the cambium layer of the branches. 

The beavers then cut the trunks and limbs into manageable pieces, eat what they can,  and float the leftovers to their stockpile. Here the branches are shoved into the mud and kept fresh so that the beavers will have food accessible under the ice all winter. 
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Pecan orchards are particularly vulnerable. It can take a pecan tree up to 10 years to become productive, but a beaver can take even a large one down in a night or two. 
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During the summer months, beavers don't leave much sign. They are primarily eating pond weeds and tubers, not trees, and spend very little time on land. We recently cleaned one local lake that had almost no sign around it. I saw one footprint and decided to set some traps. We wound up taking 10 beavers from that lake! 

In addition to the obvious tree chewing, there are a number of signs that beavers are present. 

For an animal that can weigh up to 70 lbs, beavers leave surprisingly light footprints. 
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Their front feet can be difficult to distinguish from raccoon tracks and their back feet are enormous, often the size of a man's hand, and are webbed. This creates a "snowshoe" effect and there can be little to no depression in the mud. However, when they are present, they are easily identifiable and a clear indication that there are beavers present. 

Beavers are very territorial and mark their territory by piling up a mound of mud and vegetation on the bank at the water's edge and spraying it with a secretion from a gland under their tail. This musky smelling secretion can be smelled for quite some distance and warns other beavers to stay away. Often when I approach a pond, the smell of beaver castor is very strong and a positive indication that there are beavers living in the pond. 

The final indication that you may be hosting a colony of beavers, is the presence of slides. Beavers are creatures of habit and will enter and exit the water in a convenient place, often leaving a slick muddy slide into the water. ​ 

If you have a beaver problem, or if you are not sure if you have a beaver problem, contact Predator Impact at (918) 397-4091 and we will be happy to help you assess the problem, and to determine an appropriate solution. 

I like skunks! They are pretty, low key, great mousers.... if it wasn't for that whole "stinky butt juice" thing, most people would like having them around. 

but that is a BIG " if " ! 

Fun facts about skunks:

• Skunks only spray in self defense. 
• Skunks don't want to spray. They will often try to intimidate you by hissing, fluffing up, raising their tail, stamping their feet and false charging. Only if that doesn't work will they spray. Talk softly to the skunk (it really works) and back away slowly. 
• Skunk spray is made up of two parts. The water based chemical called thiol (N-butly mercaptan) is the stinky part. The second part is an oil base that makes it linger for days. 
• Baby skunks have the stinky part, but not the oil. If they spray you, it washes right off. 
• Skunk "essence" is harvested and distilled. The oil base is used in very expensive perfumes to make them long lasting (can you image that distillery?) 
• Skunks can spray up to 15 feet. A little more if the wind is in their favor.
• A skunk can spray up to 6 times (usually less) before it runs out of "juice". After that, can take 10-14 days for their glands to refill.  During this time, they are defenseless. Another reason they don't want to spray unnecessarily. 
• Here are a couple of good articles if you want to read more about skunk spray.  

• A skunk's #1 predator is the Great Horned owl. GHOs prey on skunks regularly and often take housecats, presumably mistaken for a skunk. 
• In self defense, the skunk will attempt to spray the GHO. If it manages to hit the owl in the eyes, the owl will be blind for about 24 hours. It is not uncommon to see a GHO sitting motionless (and stinking!) waiting for the skunk spray blindness to wear off. Fortunately for the owl, they have almost no sense of smell! 
  

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Predator Impact's first skunk call was about 5 years ago. For five years I was proud to brag that, even though we had trapped and relocated hundreds of skunks, I had never been sprayed.... until last week! 
It was a very routine skunk call. We caught the skunk and drove to the release site, but then I got lazy. Normally, I place the trap on the ground, open the door, and get back in the truck. The skunks are usually asleep and it takes them a while to wake up, leave the trap, and waddle into the woods. This day I opened the trap before placing it on the ground. The skunk was wide awake and, at some point, bolted out of the trap! When I looked down, the little &%#$@ was spraying my pant leg!
Once I was thoroughly sprayed, he ran off into the woods. On the drive home, all three dogs were crushed up against the passenger's side door trying to get away from me! 
The one good thing to come out of this was that I was able to test out a remedy that the birddog guys have told me about for years, but I have never had the chance to try. 

According to some friends who are avid bird hunters, their dogs can be sprayed by a skunk, they will bathe them in CloSYS mouthwash and the dog will sleep in their bed that night. 
CloSYS is available at any Walmart or pharmacy. 
This makes sense chemically. Both bad breath and skunk spray involve sulfer based compounds. It is logical that something that kills bad breath would neutralize skunk spray odor. 
One note: Do not get your dog (or yourself) wet first. The CloSYS works best if applied dry and then washed off later. 
I am really pleased to report that I applied the CloSYS, then took a shower. The smell was almost gone after the first application, and a second application to my leg in the area that took the direct hit cleaned it right up. 
I got dressed and saw customers the rest of the day and no one noticed a thing. 

There are lots of baking soda/peroxide/soap formulas on the internet, and several different premade formulas available, but I have never had as good a result as I had with the CloSYS. 

Predator Impact used to advertise that we trap and relocate skunks without them spraying 99.99% of the time. I guess now we have to advertise 99.98% of the time! 

Call Predator Impact to handle all your skunk related issues. We use special traps and successfully relocate the skunks without spraying 99.98% of the time! 

Predator Impact
(918) 397-4091 

One of my passions is helping to reduce people's stress level over snakes through education. You don't have to know every single species of snake, you only need to be able to ID the venomous ones.

There is an old story about the captain of a ship entering an unfamiliar harbor that is well known for it hidden, shifting, and treacherous sandbars. He radios the Harbormaster and asks him to send out a pilot to guide them in safely. Soon a small boat pulls up and a 16 year old boy comes aboard. The Captain is dubious and asks the boy "Son, do you really know where all the sand bars are?" The boy responded "No sir, but I know where they ain't!" 
Snakes in Oklahoma are a lot like that.  You don't need to know them all, but make sure you can identify the venomous ones. 
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Oklahoma is blessed with 46 species of snakes. If those, only seven (15%) are potentially harmful to humans. If you lump the Western Diamondback, Timber Rattler, Prairie Rattler and the Massasauga together (the differences are purely academic) there are only four snakes you need to learn to identify. 

#1 Rattlesnakes
The Diamondback, Timber, Prairie. and Massasauga rattlesnakes are very similar. The can get quite large, have a distinct rattle at the end of their tail, and a bite you want to stay clear of. 
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Western Diamondback
(AKA Coontail) ​

Timber Rattlesnake
(AKA Canebrake or Velvet tail) ​

Prairie Rattlesnake​

​Again, the difference between these four are not of great importance to most people. If it has a rattle, give it a little extra room and you'll be fine. 

Please note: It may be possible that the rattlesnake' rattle has broken off. If in doubt, take the path of caution and leave it be! 
​


#2 Western Pigmy Rattlesnale
I have separated the Pigmy Rattlesnake from the others as is a little less obvious. As the name implies, it is a very small snake (less than 20"). It is brightly colored and has a tiny rattle that isn't always easy to see, and is almost never heard. 

Once you learn to recognize the alternating brown and peach colored spots that run down its back, they are easy to identify. 

#3 Copperhead
The copperhead is a beautifully marked snake. Their color starts out the bright copper color of a shiny penny and darkens with age, The markings on the side are often described as "Hershey's Kisses" due to their shape.  The copperhead's venom is much milder than the other snakes listed here, but you still want to avoid them whenever possible. 

There is also a Broadbanded Copperhead that is marked a little differently. 

#4 Cottonmouth
(AKA Water Moccasin) 
The Cottonmouth is perhaps the most misidentified snake in Oklahoma. I have followed up on dozens of reports of  "sure 'nuf " Cottonmouths, but only one time was the snake properly identified. Most of the time, it is just one of the harmless watersnakes, and usually needlessly dead. 
The Cottonmouth can be marked similar to the Copperhead. Like the Copperhead, they also darken with age. The main difference is the band across the eyes. They are often described as looking like they are wearing sunglasses. 

The Cottonmouth has a very distinct defensive posture. When they feel threatened, they are the only snake I am aware of that takes this pose. ​

In this picture, you can see the distinctive white mouth that gives them their name. Note also the thick body and the sharply tapered tail. 

A common myth is that Cottonmouths chase people. They do not. No snake does. All snakes would rather run than fight and will only bite as a last resort. When frightened, the snake wants to go to someplace where it feels secure, its "Happy Place", if you will. Sometimes that place is on the other side of you and the snake may run at you to get by you. This can give the misconception that the snake is chasing you. 

Another myth is that they lay in trees over water and jump into boats. Cottonmouths are poor climbers and spend most of their life at ground (or water) level. The Western, or Black, Ratsnake is often mistaken for a Cottonmouth and they are great climbers. They do hang out in trees and can occasionally lose their grip and fall. 

There are two "Rules of Thumb" for identifying venomous snakes. Both are wrong and could be potentially dangerous. 

1. All venomous snakes have a triangular head. Wrong! Many snakes, especially the watersnakes, can and do flatten their heads when threatened. This makes their head look triangular and more threatening 
2. All venomous snakes swim above water and non-venomous snakes swim below water. Wrong! Both venomous and non-venomous snakes can swim both above and below the water's surface. 

Summary
Once you realize that the vast majority of snakes you encounter on a daily basis are harmless, and even the venomous ones want to run, not bite, it is easier to be less concerned about encountering a snake in the wild. 

Leave the snake alone and they will leave you alone. The vast majority of snake bites involve alcohol and the phrase "Hey Ya'll! Watch this!" 

You don't need to be able to identify all 46 species of snakes in Oklahoma. Just focus on the four groups above and the rest will not be a problem. 

If you are interested in learning more about snakes in Oklahoma, consider joining the Oklahoma Snake Identification Network on Facebook, 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/oklahomasnakeidnetwork/
​
They are very knowledgeable and have a lot of resources to help you learn to identify Oklahoma's snakes. 

If you have a picture of a snake you are not certain about, text it to me at (918) 397-4091 and I will help you ID it. 

If you have a snake, either venomous or non-venomous, that is in your home or anywhere else it shouldn't be, contact Predator Impact and we will relocate it to a new home. 

Predator Impact
​(918) 397-4091